Back to School Shopping in LA

It starts with an idea. Ideas spread. Things are observed, learned, mentally digested, then only to be reproduced as one's own self-understood interpretation of the same thing. This is the essence of surfing. Knowledge begets knowledge. For me, I want to be Taj Burrow, his skateboard like style and on point fundamentals. But since I can't surf with Taj Burrow, Broso's a solid second best. Kid is always pushing his limits. Since I first met this small, bony Snoopy-sized grommet with a greasy combed-backed blonde dome for a head of hair in 2004, we've been doin' work. I can say, from driving this kid to the beach through LA traffic before the sun rises, to waiting at McDonald's for him to finish a poo while he reads a surf mag for 30 min., there was a lot of good surfing in-between. I've definitely learned a lot from watching his surfboard perform throughout the years, yet it was knowledge of the "nooks & crannies"of the ocean that I previously never knew existed. So learning, sharing, experiencing with passion and enthusiasm is the point of this convoluted rant. 5 years later, we're following the same habits and visiting the same spots. The following is an example of just that this past summer.

Big SW at 24 second period. Topanga, Los Angeles, August 2011

Ambrose Tarantino

Photo: Peter Dive

Jeff Cheney

Photo: Peter Dive